Kathmandu is the culinary crossroads where the salt-yak caravans of the high plateau met with the spice merchants of the Indian plains. Whether you’re fuelling before Everest, or you want more than the tea house menus, the true depth of Nepalese cuisine remains an enigma to most - and it's kitchens go far beyond dal bhaat rice and lentils.

Over generations, the Newari, Indian, Sherpa and Tibetan mountain tribes have forged a food culture like no other. We remove the guesswork and embark on a 15+ tasting crawl to the hole-in-the-wall eateries tucked within the backstreets of Thamel. Start at Indrachowk, a market labyrinth hiding a neighborhood kitchen that has survived for over two decades. Tear into a Newari khaja set - a textural riot of crunchy beaten rice and smoky roasted soybeans. It's served alongside rice-flour crepes topped with minced buff meat and a punch of herbs. Toast the expedition with chhyang; a milky rice wine that acts as the ultimate local aperitif.

Head to a women-led street food hotspot for chaku yomari rice dumplings oozing with dark, bittersweet molasses. Round out the Newari comfort food with bara tarkari pancakes dunked into an aalu tarkari curry. We’re only a few rounds into our food marathon, with more surprises to come. Duck into hidden alleys and courtyards of Asan bazaar for momo dumplings, the undisputed culinary anchor of Kathmandu’s street food. Slip behind a tailor’s shop to find a legendary stall for flaky samosas, and orange pretzel-shaped jalebi deep-fried in syrup. Pivot to litti chokha dough balls stuffed with roasted gram and charred over an open fire. Balance it with dahi puri crispy shells that explode in a cooling mess of yoghurt and tangy tamarind.

Hop on a bicycle rickshaw ride through honking horns and ancient temple bells. We pay tribute to Tibetan culinary influences, with slippery laphing noodles in a signature timur chili oil, paired with cured buffalo jerky stir-fried into a smoky delicacy. For those with a sweet tooth, try silky burfi milk fudge and laddu chickpeas desserts. Wash it down with a lassi that's dusted with nuts and saffron. Experience a side of Thamel that most visitors walk right past, led by a food-obsessed local guide. The tourist cafes won't stand a chance once you’ve found the secret kitchens where the locals eat.