Наш тур начинается в очаровательном районе парка Уцубо, известном своими небольшими стильными галереями. По пути вы также обнаружите уютные бутики, уникальные ремесленные мастерские и модные кафе. Это оживленный район, где искусство и образ жизни органично сочетаются, предлагая заглянуть в творческую культуру Осаки.

A short walk from Utsubo Park brings us to the Wakasa Building, a few minutes from Higobashi Station. One building, several floors, four independent spaces sharing the same stairwell — an art bookstore on one level, small galleries on the others. It's the kind of building you'd walk past without a reason to go in, which is exactly why I bring people here. We usually spend close to an hour moving between floors, since there's rarely only one show worth seeing. If a gallerist happens to be at the desk, I'll introduce you and translate as we talk — some of the better conversations on this tour have started right there.

Lads gallery is a two-room contemporary space I stop by often — a small entrance room that opens onto a larger gallery behind it, the two together holding one focused show at a time. The programming leans contemporary, close to what's being made in the city right now, and the space is small enough that a single visit can settle into looking rather than scanning. The owner is often around and easy to talk to. If he's not caught up with something, some of the better moments here happen when the three of us end up standing in front of a piece together, working out what it's doing. If not, the room still holds up on its own.

Nishitenma, just south of Minamimorimachi Station, is where Osaka's contemporary galleries cluster most densely — half a dozen small independent spaces within a few blocks of each other, most run by a single person or two, most showing work you won't come across anywhere else in the city that month. We don't visit the same ones every time. On any given day I'll pick three or four based on what's actually on view and what you've told me you're curious about, and we move between them at walking pace. Some are white cubes tucked behind a door on a second floor; others share a building with a café or a small press. Expect close to an hour here in total, though it can stretch if a conversation opens up or a show is asking for a longer look.