· Mutianyu is already less crowded than Badaling. At sunset, it’s nearly yours alone. · Cable car makes the climb easy – then a gentle walk along restored watchtowers. · Sunset light turns the grey bricks into warm amber. It’s the most photogenic hour. · I know exactly which watchtower faces west for the perfect shot – and how to time the cable car back down.

· Built in the Eastern Jin dynasty (over 1,600 years ago). · Three wonders: bamboo path, twin ginkgo trees (male & female), and a pine tree embraced by purple wisteria. · Make a wish at Hongluo Temple - Locals say it really works.