You step into the bazaar where merchants have traded since the 1300s, and the senses load up fast: hammered copper ringing from workshops, sacks of cumin and hibiscus, the gleam of colored glass lamps. Your guide leads you past the tourist-front stalls to the artisans who still make their goods by hand, and shows you how to judge quality and settle on a fair price. There is time to sit at El Fishawy, open since 1797, for a mint tea or a Turkish coffee. Buy a lot or nothing at all; the choice stays yours.