You arrive in the morning as trucks and herders are still bringing camels in, and the noise hits first: bellowing animals, shouted prices, the slap of hands sealing a deal. Your guide moves you through the pens, explaining how a camel's worth is read from its teeth, hump, and gait, and translating the bargaining as it happens. Hundreds of animals change hands here on a busy day, many having walked the desert route up from Sudan. It is a candid look at a trade that has run for centuries. Wear closed shoes you do not mind getting dusty.