A certified Sommelier walks you through the rows ,the philosophy — and through the rare indigenous varieties this winery has worked to keep alive. Some of these grapes nearly disappeared from Crete a generation ago. They’re here because someone decided they were worth saving. The tasting that follows is built as a four-course food-and-wine pairing — indigenous varieties in conversation with dishes drawn from Cretan tradition, where the wine and the food finish each other’s sentences and the afternoon stops moving.